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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.